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Power supply 12V 10A (120W)
You can use 5A and also 10A. The difference is in the stability of the engine speed and the stability of the nozzle temperature. The stronger the source, the faster the nozzle heats up.
12V (7RPM) DC motor
The motor is built into the holder and drives the spool for winding the finished pet filament. This 12V DC motor has its own gearbox (it is not necessary to print the gearbox). This means very high torque without any additional gear system.
PWM Regulator 12V 5A
PWM 12V DC Motor Speed Controller Module DC-DC 4.5V-35V Adjustable Speed Regulator. This small component allows for a smooth reduction or increase in engine speed without loss of torque.
Thermocontroller (12V – up to 500°C)
Simple wiring, simple remoting temperature. No hacks, no struggle. Be careful on params. You need 12V one with working temperature up to 500C!
12V N20 (300RPM)
Geared 12V (300RPM) DC motor for cutter. This part is moving cutter blade up and down with worm gear 3D printed gear system. The 300 RPM is good speed/torque foe easy, and slow moving the blade up and down.
The heat block is the part heated by the heating element (12V 40W). When choosing, it is important to know that the larger the block, the slower it cools with less temperature fluctuations.
Heater 12V (40W)
Ceramic heater 12V (40W) is a component that is inserted into the heat block and ensures heating of the nozzle. It is a cheap and simple component.
Two pieces of microswitches for controlling the height of the cutter blade. The height of the knife blade determines the width of the cut strip from the PET bottle. This will give you the ideal width due to the differences in wall thickness of different bottles.
Color Switch (230V)
The colored power switch used in the previous version of PETamentor. It is important that the switch is sized for the power of your socket. If your local network is 110V, you can safely use a switch for 230V, never the other way around!
Nozzle (must drill DIY)
To convert a PET bottle into filament, I use a standard nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, which must be drilled. Drilling is very simple, using a 1.5mm drill bit. Here is a video tutorial.
L shape metal bracket (20×20) for mouting a heatblock with the nozzle. Hole is little bit tight, so its better to drill it with 6mm drill bit (only for a nozzle).
M3 Screws (10mm)
Screws for cutter assembly, puller assembly and spool assembly. The screw is 10mm long – metric M3 type. You can choose the screw head as you like.
Wood screws M2.6 (10-12mm long)
Wood screws that are for attaching all the 3D printed parts of the PETamentor. The wood screws must not be longer than the thickness of your wooden platform.
9mm Utility Blade Knife
9mm utility blades. The thinnest standardized blade that you can even buy at your local hardware store
M8 Threaded Rod (500mm)
M8 (8mm) threaded rod – length 500mm, needed for cutter. I personally shortened the rod to 45mm. But that depends on your local conditions. You can print an included telescopic rod instead of buying this 🙂 (STL is already included)
M8 Half Threaded Bolts
M8 Half bolt. You need two pieces to assemble the cutter.(13mm head, 35mm long, 12mm without thread). Alternatively you can use fully threaded M8 (about 50mm long) ones.
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