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Power supply
Power supply 12V 10A (120W)
You can use 5A and also 10A. The difference is in the stability of the engine speed and the stability of the nozzle temperature. The stronger the source, the faster the nozzle heats up. Variant: 12V 5A (or 10A)
DC motor
12V (7RPM) DC motor
The motor is built into the holder and drives the spool for winding the finished pet filament. This 12V DC motor has its own gearbox (it is not necessary to print the gearbox). This means very high torque without any additional gear system. Variant: 12V 7RPM
Regulator
PWM Regulator 12V 5A
PWM 12V DC Motor Speed Controller Module DC-DC 4.5V-35V Adjustable Speed Regulator. This small component allows for a smooth reduction or increase in engine speed without loss of torque. Variant: 12V 5A (or 10A if you have 10A power supply)
Shaft coupler
6mm DC motor shaft coupler
This small metal piece is solving all the previous problems with the spool slipping on the shaft. Cheap and simple upgrade :-). Variant: 6mm
Bearings
608ZZ – 6pcs
Bearings for puller and for your cutter. For cutter and Matthieus puller use, you need to sharp them. Please watch tutorial. Remember on your safety 🙂
Thermocontroller
Thermocontroller (12V – up to 500°C)
Simple wiring, simple remoting temperature. No hacks, no struggle. Be careful on params. You need 12V one with working temperature up to 500C! Variant: 12V 500°C
DC motor
12V DC motor N20 (300RPM)
Geared 12V (300RPM) DC motor for cutter. This part is moving cutter blade up and down with worm gear 3D printed gear system. The 300 RPM is good speed/torque for easy, and precise for setting the strip width. Variant: 12V 300RPM
Heatblock
Heatblock
The heat block is the part heated by the heating element (12V 40W). When choosing, it is important to know that the larger the block, the slower it cools with less temperature fluctuations.
Heater
Heater 12V (40W)
Ceramic heater 12V (40W) is a component that is inserted into the heat block and ensures heating of the nozzle. It is a cheap and simple component. Variant: 12V 40W
Microswitch
Microswitch (2PCS)
Two pieces of microswitches for controlling the height of the cutter blade. The height of the PET strip guide for cutter determines the width of the cut strip from the PET bottle. This will give you the ideal width due to the differences in wall thickness of different bottles.
Switch
Color Switch (230V)
The colored power switch used in the previous PETamentor version. Always make sure the switch matches the rating of your power socket. If your local mains voltage is 110 V, it is safe to use a switch rated for 230 V — but never use a 110 V switch on a 230 V network! Variant 220V or 230V (depends on your loaction)
Nozzle
Nozzle 1.5mm
To convert a PET bottle into filament, I use a standard nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, which must be drilled. Drilling is very simple, using a 1.5mm drill bit. Here is a video tutorial, or you can buy 1.5mm. Variant: 1.5mm
L Bracket
Metal Bracket
L shape metal bracket (20×20) for mouting a heatblock with the nozzle. Hole is little bit tight, so its better to drill it with 6mm drill bit (only for a nozzle). Variant: 20x20mm
Screws
M3 Screws (10mm and 8mm)
Screws for cutter assembly, puller assembly and spool assembly. 15x M3 8mm 4x M3 10mm. Variant: M3 8mm 4x M3 10mm
Screws
Wood screws M2.6 (10-12mm long)
Wood screws that are for attaching all the 3D printed parts of the PETamentor. The wood screws must not be longer than the thickness of your wooden platform. Variant: 10mm or 12mm
Threaded Rod
M8 Threaded Rod (500mm)
M8 (8mm) threaded rod – length 500mm, needed for cutter. I personally shortened the rod to 45mm. But that depends on your local conditions. You can print an included telescopic rod instead of buying this 🙂 (STL is already included). Variant M8 500mm long