Part 1 – Cutter Gear
Integrazed PET bottle cutter is an optional part of the new PETamentor MK2. This section is solving the issue of PET bottle strip width. Thanks to the integrated cutter, you can set the strip width during filament production for the optimal quality of your PET filament.
The first part of the tutorial is the assembly of the cutter gearbox. It is possible to use PLA or PETg for printing all parts. The ideal infill is 40%. In this part Im using 2x M8 screw (13mm head, 35mm long, 12mm without thread) for gear assembly Im using M3 screws (10mm long thread, 2mm head diameter). Before final assembly, I recommend lubricating the gearbox with vaseline for smooth operation of the gearbox. At this stage, the polarity of the dc motor connection is not yet important. You can change the polarity only after installing the driver to change the direction of rotation. I do not recommend using supports for 3D printing worm gear. Cleaning the supports is very difficult and the transmission may not be free-running. It is better to reduce the temperature of the nozzle. Then it is possible to print without supports.
Part 2 – Platform and Power Supply
The platform is made of chipboard (you can also use other material). The dimensions of my board are 450×140 millimeters. The board is really small and the components fit snugly on it (I recomending to use bigger one). in our Facebook group you can also find a PETamentor built on an ordinary (probably spruce) board.
How to connect the wires can be found in Wiring and electronics section. The diagram contains the complete wiring of the PETamentor.
Part 3 – Cutter and Puller
This video is a bit longer. It includes two of the three main parts. The mechanics of the cutter is shown in the first part. Here I attach the gearbox to the platform and assemble the cutter height control with the connection to the power supply (you can find the complete diagram in the wiring section.
Part 4 – Thermocontroller and Heatblock
In this part, we will show how to connect a thermocontroller and a heating element. The location of the heat block is in the axis of winding the filament on the center of the spool. Be careful when finding the heat block bracket distance. Make sure there is no other component obstructing the underside of the platform. To attach the heat block holder, I used a sufficiently long M6 screw, secured by a nut. You can find the wiring diagram in its section. You will also find a manual for setting the thermocontroller values here. Sensor clipping is a hot topic. But it is the most efficient way to achieve the lowest possible temperature difference when switching the thermocontroller on and off. Without using this method, the temperature difference is around 15 degrees Celsius. Using this method, the part drops to 4 degrees Celsius, which is excellent.
How to set up your thermocontroler can be found in Wiring and electronics page.
Drilling The Nozzle
Drilling the nozzle is very simple. Just use a 0.5mm drill bit. Take care of the safety of your hands and eyes when working. A small drill and a vice are enough for drilling. Never drill the nozzle in your hand as shown in the video. I made the video just for better clarity.